Thursday, June 9, 2016



Beauty cultural of japan history

Kiyoshi Asai makeup:
As I'm currently finishing my many loose ends for Japanese thesis that had a kind of epiphany: I am a student of Japanese Studies; however, a large portion of my content has revolved around Korean cosmetics (as they are readily available to me at this time.) However, late at night, I gave myself thinking: Why not both? As much as I like criticism prepare, I am also really enjoying subjects related to my stuies so I thought it combines the best of both worlds would be the best way to do that is why I am presenting today a Cultural History beauty as Japan. (I would like to make a series of this, but I'm not sure what exactly what would focus on..but itself, a cultural history of Korea and China would be the first logical step.)

Looking back over the history of Japan, we know from passages in the Kojiki chronicles (古 事 記, "Records of Ancient Matters") and Nihon Shoki (日本 書 紀, the second oldest book of classical Japanese history) which in antiquity had existing customs of face paint with red pigments. From this most primitive of cosmetic use, the Japanese developed a more aesthetic approach to beauty in the second half of the sixth century, when various forms of makeup such as blush and powder were imported into Japan, along with other aspects Korean culture and Chinese. The first to face powder in Japan is said to have been a Buddhist priest, who delighted the empress with his new invention. The white face powder is first made from rice powder and clay, but more deadly white lead, imported from China, the frequent choice remained until the 19th century.

During the Heian period (平安 時代, 794-1185), Japanese beauty products went from a mere imitation of Chinese to an aesthetic that was more suited to the sensitivity and customs of Japan models - the long straight hair, white face powder and repaint the developed eyebrows within society. Many ideals that continue to shape the aesthetics of female beauty was first developed at this time. However, the makeup was still limited to the world of elite.About same time, a rather unusual beauty perfect set foot in Japan, which was the blackening of the teeth, ohaguro (お 歯 黒) was also common elsewhere Southeast Asia. The teeth were completely black, like lacquer-like enamel, were seen as beautiful and remains popular as an ideal of beauty to the Meiji era. Many Westerners who visited Japan described as an aberrant ohaguro Japanese custom disfiguring Japanese women. It is conjectured that the purpose of this custom is chastity to make intentionally unattractive women to avoid possible extramarital affair - However, many Japanese social scientists disagree with this theory. Based on the fact that Japanese girls were allowed greatly both social and sexual freedom until ohaguro when they resume the responsibility of wife and mother, she is far more likely that it was a social ritual by both society as a girl celebrate the same determination of mature women.

With the arrival of Muromachi (室町時代, 1333-1573) period cosmetics are mentioned in several writings of this period leading to the conclusion that face powder and rouge were well known by the urban population. By the Edo period (江 戸 時代, 1600-1868) there were treaties made on the label and behavior for women, who also gave detailed instructions on the proper use of cosmetics. During this period cosmetics focused on a palette of three basic colors: red (lipstick, nail polish), white (face powder: oshiroi お 白 い) and black (tooth-blackener, eyebrow pencil). Powder white face was strongly applied to the face, neck and ears to create a stark white complexion, often contrasts artfully natural skin color of the surrounding skin with an edge carefully adjusted in the lower neck below the hairline. Her lips were painted on white base and usually get smaller and slightly higher than the natural shape of the lips.

It was during this time when women were particularly interested in applying face powder in order to create a flawless complexion, which was considered as "the essence of a beautiful woman." Face powder Edo period was based pigment white lead dissolved in water and applied with hands or a wide, flat brush. One brand of face powder, even won enduring popularity by "infomercials" with a ukiyo-e (woodprint) editor.

The pigments were made mainly rouge safflower, and placed on the lips, cheeks and nails. As face powder, a lightweight application was considered as a sign of refinement and sensitivity. In the late Edo period, however, there was a trend leaning towards a heavier application of lipstick - pigments came from fresh safflower became so expensive that is said to be worth its weight in gold.



Matti Sedholm:
The practice of ohaguro, the blackening of the teeth, was firmly established from the middle of the Edo period onwards as a symbol of marital status of women: women who blacken your teeth immediately before or just after their wedding, and shave his eyebrows at the birth of his first child (and paint again in a higher position than the front, as seen in many many Japanese woodprints.)

As Japan entered modern times, a decree of the official government of the third year of the Meiji (明治 時代, 1868-1912) banned the practice of blackening teeth and shave your eyebrows among the nobility; and after the Meiji Empress gave blackening their teeth in 1873, ordinary women progressively adopted. Around 1877, concern about lead poisoning inspired a quest to develop a lead-free face powder, which was finally released in 1904




It was Taishô 1920:
In the period Taishô (大 正 時代, 1912-1926), the focus is directed towards rapid implementation and more convenient makeup practices that were interconnected with the advancement of women not only in society but also the workplace in general . Face powder began to be sold in a wider range of different shades of white traditional range, and lipstick tube using other pigments and dyes began to replace the traditional rouge based on safflower. Emulsions and variations of skin care products also appeared on the market, such as cosmetics became increasingly Westernized of the 1910s onwards. Especially after World War II, from the 1950s, the aesthetics of Japan were strongly influenced by the American media, especially magazines and movies.

Nowadays, Japan has advanced to one of the market leaders of cosmetics and beauty products and has established several innovations made in the name of beauty; the annual value of Japanese beauty market is estimated at US $ 13 billion. Shiseido is dominating the market, followed by Kose and Kanebo.

Although the appearance of white powder face heavy Edo period is not true today, beautiful white skin remains a crucial element as an ideal for many Japanese beauty. Japan has also made significant progress in reduction techniques scar tissue, which is a direct response to the importance attached to the skin without blemishes. Traditional makeup today is limited to the stage and the world of geishas and maiko (apprentice geisha), but cosmetics are still an important part of women, and increasingly men's lives so.

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